Doctors and plastic surgeons are warning that heightened risks may come with some cosmetic treatments such as microdermabrasion, in patients who have darker toned skin. Michele Byers decided to undergo microdermabrasion, a procedure that renews the skin’s complexion by ridding dead skin cells.
After one session of the treatment, Byers developed bumps all over her face. “It looked like a railroad track on my forehead and nose. Here I was trying to do something nice for myself and I ended up looking worse than I ever had in my life,” Byers said.
According to Dr. Terri Dunn, a dermatologist in Berkeley, “If the skin is darker it is prone to scarring and hyper-pigmentation, so we have to be more careful with skin of color.” While darker skins extra melanin may help afford added sun protection and alleviate the signs of aging, it is actually more sensitive than lighter skin.
Dunn and other dermatologists recommend that ethnic and dark skinned patients seek physicians who are skilled in a multitude of skin tones and who have FDA approved lasers, designed specifically for darker skin. Even with treatments such as acne and laser hair removal, a different approach must be taken to avoid negative side effects such as burning and blistering.
Dunn added, that only recently has the company’s ethnic population grown to 40 percent of the United States’ residents. Science is now catching up to cater to the specific needs of all people seeking cosmetic treatments.
“In the past couple of years, devices, cosmetics and topical medications are being tested on people of different colors because we realize that the skin reacts differently,” says dermatologist Susan Taylor, founder of the Skin of Color Center in New York. “Even the FDA is requiring companies to make sure their clinical trials include individuals from different backgrounds.”
The most common side effects of cosmetic treatments found in people with darker skin tones are hyper and hypo-pigmentation. In order to prevent these problems from occurring, a physician may use a lower concentration of the solution for chemical peels, or leave the treatment on for shorter periods of time.
As for microdermabrasion treatment, “There are lasers that transmit a long pulse and are better-suited for pigmented skin,” according to Dr. Taylor. “Physicians should test spots to check for side effects over a period of 24 to 72 hours. Also, either the dermatologist should do the procedure or someone who is trained by him. You don’t want to go to a medi-spa where there isn’t a physician.”
Byers emphasized the importance of finding a trusted board certified physician who is skilled in treating all skin types, “One thing I’ve learned is it’s not about black people knowing black skin. One black woman put salicylic acid on me. You need someone who knows different types of skin and has the latest products and equipment,” Byers commented.
You may wish to speak with a board certified plastic surgeon to learn more about safe cosmetic treatment options for people with darker skin tones.